The oldest hub of carpet weaving in India is Mirzapur in Bhadohi district of Uttar Pradesh. The Ganga flows past this town with its ghats, ancient temples and waterfalls. But I am here to understand the process of making intricate rugs and carpets for which Mirzapur is famous.

The genesis of carpet making in Mirzapur can be traced to the Mughal emperor, Akbar, in the 16th century. A caravan of Persian carpet weavers, it is said, on its way to the Mughal court was waylaid and injured by dacoits on the Grand Trunk Road. The weavers were rescued and given shelter by local villagers. The master weaver of the group decided to settle down here and share his skills with his benefactors. That is how the renowned carpet industry of Mirzapur took root. 

Relaxing in the 200-year-old Obeetee bungalow, I thought of the artisans of Bhadohi district who have watched their parents weave and then become apprentices themselves. Many generations of artisans blossomed into gifted weavers over the past five centuries.