The traditional Indian textile art Kalamkari has been enchanting hearts for centuries. It originated in the coastal regions of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. This technique, handloom-based by nature, intricately creates hand-painted designs on natural fabrics. From the colours to the designs etched intricately within every piece, which takes over the centuries of tradition and speaks of storytelling. As the Indian famous artist Nandita Das once said, "Art is the most beautiful of all lies." Well, Kalamkari tells beautiful truths.
The art goes back in history for more than 3,000 years when it was intertwined with spirituality and folklore. The term "Kalamkari" comes from the Persian words "kalam," meaning pen, and "kari," meaning work. Initially, artisans used this technique to make temple cloths that bore scenes of epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana. Kalamkari dates back to the 17th century, when it was used primarily to decorate temple curtains and hangings. This art form remained the patron of Hyderabad's Qutb Shahi and Nizam rulers for centuries. Kalamkari textiles used to be exported to other parts of the world with their unique style and bright colours bringing them a good reputation in those times.
According to locals, it is passed down through generations by the local artisans in the village of Srikalahasti. It can be described beautifully by a local artisan, Krishna Rao: "Every stroke of the pen is a prayer. When I draw a deity, I feel like I am connecting the past with the present." His words remind us that Kalamkari is not just aesthetics; it's a spiritual journey too.
The Art of Kalamkari Craft
Kalamkari is the art of creating something with intense details that demand a lot of skill, patience, and a splash of creativity. Srikalahasti near the temple town of Tirupati in Andhra Pradesh specialises in producing temple cloths, Kalamkari (lit. pen-work), primarily used for their temple festivals or as wall hangings. The stories from the epics the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas are painted as continuous narratives, each important event framed in a rectangle. Sometimes short episodes from the stories are also painted. The relevant Telugu verses explaining the theme are also carried below the artwork.
Considerable degree of imaginative and technical skill is required to condense the stories into illustrative formats. The master craftsman draws the outline of the design with Kalam or pen on the myrobalan treated cloth using charcoal sticks made from tamarind wood. He draws from the rich repertoire of design and motifs and iconographical details of various god and goddesses as laid down traditionally. The colours are obtained from vegetable and mineral sources. The main colours used are black, red, blue and yellow, and alum is used as mordant to fix the colours and to obtain the reds. The gods are painted blue, and the demons and evil characters in red and green, Yellow is used for female figures and ornaments. Red is mostly used as a background. The cotton cloth is washed in flowing water to remove starch. Keeping up with the times, the Kalamkari artists are now designing also for their modern clientele.
Here's a little sneak peek into what's happening:
Fabric preparation: The journey begins with the use of cotton or silk pre-treated with myrobalan, a natural mordant. It's like giving the fabric a luxurious facial—preparing it for the artwork to come!
Sketching the Designs: The craftsman employs a bamboo pen to draw out myths, nature, and life based designs. "When I draw, I am not just creating; I am telling stories," one artisan said.
Dyeing with Nature: The colours used are as earthy as a rainy day. Indigo for blues, pomegranate for yellows, and rusted iron for blacks- these dyes are from the earth, giving each piece an earthiness.
Cleaning and Drying: Once the dyeing is done, there comes the cleaning process of all extra colours followed by air drying. It shines in the sunlight and flaunts its colour well with the hopes to adorn that person.
Final Touch-up: Final Clean-up followed by Ironing gets the fabric ready for a great appearance, whether it be an elegant Saree or a chic table runner.
Types of Kalamkari: Srikalahasti vs Machilipatnam
Two styles of Kalamkari. Two styles that symbolise the dint of their own independent charm.
Srikalahasti Style: The outline is on a design. Freehand lines drawn on the fabrics by artisans. Just spectacular-while each product feels like an impromptu piece of art. An artisan would say, "It's as if the fabric is alive, wanting to relate its tale."
This style employs block printing by carved wooden blocks. The designs are bold, repeated, and striking. It is as if entering into a colourful gallery of patterns that could brighten an outfit!
Kalamkari in Modern Fashion
It has been ruffling waves in the world of fashion lately. The designers and enthusiasts are finding this craft that echoes the strong design elements relevant to the contemporary silhouette. You could thus have Kalamkari sarees, tops, and dresses that speak of the modern woman with dignity that the heritage carries.
Now, why just clothing? Imagine Kalamkari cushions, wall hangings, and table runners adding a splash of culture to your home. Indeed, the old saying goes, "Home is where the art is," and Kalamkari makes this statement truer than ever!
An Eco-Friendly Choice
Among the devastating effects of fast fashion on the environment, there stands Kalamkari, one that promises least amount of waste and promotes local artisans' economy by working through natural dyes and traditional techniques. "At a time when we all forget our roots, Kalamkari reminds us of the beauty in simplicity and sustainability," says Ritu Kumar, designer. Cultural Importance of Kalamkari
It is rich in cultural artefacts: However, the art of Kalamkari contains more than just aesthetic value. Most designs tell the stories from Hindu mythology, giving a glimpse into India's rich spiritual tapestry. Possessing a piece of Kalamkari is like having a personal conversation with history. According to one of its patrons, "Wearing Kalamkari feels like wearing a story; it connects me to my roots."
Fun Facts About Kalamkari
A heritage craft: Kalamkari is a three millennia-old art tradition, often a medium for illustration of Hindu epics.
Environmentally-friendly dyeing techniques: The natural source of dyes used provide Kalamkari as a piece of environmentally-friendly clothing for those fashion enthusiasts.
Community Revival: Several initiatives try to revive it, and train local artisans so as to ensure this ancient art form.
Care : To maintain the vibrancy and the brightness of your Kalamkari, here are the proper care instructions
Hand Wash: Hand wash the fabric delicately in cold water using mild detergent.
Dry Shade: Dry always in the shade.
Iron with care: Iron while inside out and on low heat setting. For all these tiny designs, the better you treat the fabric the better
Despite its growing popularity, Kalamkari faces challenges. Natural dyes and a narrow skilled artisan group remain its biggest challenge. Efforts are being made to preserve this art form through training programs, workshops, and government initiatives. Its beauty, which manifests itself through the artisans, could be marketed towards supporting artisans for centuries to come.
So, whether it is dressing up for an occasion or adorning your home, think of taking Kalamkari into your life. This is a reminder that even in this technology-driven fast-paced world around us, it is still possible to find space for the beauty of simplicity and handmade things.
